A character’s wardrobe has always been a part of who he or she is. It tells a story apart from the dialogue and movements. It establishes social standing, monetary status, education, personality, and ambition. The costume designer’s job is a huge undertaking. They are responsible for putting forth another facet of the character, and to make all the style and design elements work together harmoniously. From type of fabric to unique embellishments, costumes are powerful tools for the actor to employ and designers are finally getting their deserved notice for their backbreaking accomplishments.
Scores of movies have captivated audiences with its clothes; one of the biggest was 2002’s Devdas. Designers Neeta Lulla, Abu Jani, Sandeep Khosla and many more of their crew painstakingly scoured the world for the saris, kurtas, and dhotis that Paro and Devdas wore. They used vintage scarves and handkerchiefs from Europe, rich Benares silks and brocades, and traditional Bengali fabrics, all in vibrant and striking colors. Recently, award winning Neeta Lulla created serious costume buzz about the Aishwarya-Hritik epic Jodhaa Akbar. Amidst claims that such opulence has never been seen before, the clothing, armor, and weapons certainly dazzled on opening day. Researching every detail, from fabrics to adornments, Lulla held the concept that the clothes should be ornate and lavish, yet comfortable to wear. Production designer Nitin Desai constructed the weapons, which were made in Jodhpur. With the inclusion of gold jewelry designed by Tanishq, the movie garnered a huge amount of publicity for the dual industries.
The two most hyped movies of 2007, Om Shanti Om and Saawariya boasted impressive costumes as well. Director Farah Khan enlisted veteran Manish Malhotra, who shot to fame with 1995’s Rangeela and who also worked on 2007’s Laaga Chunari Mein Daag, along with Karan Johar and Sanjeev Mulchandani to design Om Shanti Om’s 1970’s theme of dress.  Shahrukh and company were given a full makeover and outfitted with flamboyantly colored shirts and saris befitting the era. Sanjay Leela Bhansali’s excellence in costumes was apparent yet again in Saawariya. The elusive Rajesh Pratap Singh created the looks of various characters, including Salman Khan’s. Singh stated that the military designs added to Salman’s mysterious persona, as the chintz prints elaborated the colorful past of Zohra Sehgal’s landlady. Singh and his crew worked meticulously to get the length of the kurtas and dupattas just right, as Bhansali was precise and uncompromising. Reza Shariffi, principle designer for Ranbir Kapoor, used velvets and layered muted colors for the hero. For the heroines, Anuradha Vakil drew inspiration from traditional Islamic and Kathak designs. She included antique fabrics and weaves like appliqué, ikat and kalabootan embroidery. The entire production consisted of various styles in an array of greens and blues; including Muslim, Hindu, Anglo- Indian, and Colonial British.
Vidhu Vinod Chopra’s Eklavya was costume-notable despite being set in present day. New to Bollywood, designer Raghuvendra Rathore based his creations on his native Rajasthan, despite having studied and worked in New York and Europe. He worked alongside the musical and visual directors to achieve the perfect look for the royal family of Devigarh.
For the past few decades, costumes in movies have gotten unprecedented recognition. The clothes the actors wear became just as important as their hair, make-up, and shooting locations. Nonetheless, costume design has its pitfalls. Often designers and crew find it frustrating when little information is available about a certain time period, or when certain materials are no longer available. Costumes demand enormous manpower and hours, as most are intricately hand-made. Actors buckle under the weight of the finished product, as some can weigh several pounds! Each scene and moment of the characters’ lives is artfully told in colors, fabrics, and jewels. This arduous, yet rewarding process employs hundreds of people and the end results are both awe inspiring and significant to the art of filmmaking.